Monson!  Made it to the first real "trail town." I passed the normal highway hitchhike and opted to walk in to Shaw's Lodging, only a mile and a half off of the trail.  arriving there, i was vaguely surprised to see that this was a true "lodging house" with "rooms and meals available" advertised in the front yard.  As I set down my pack, I was greeted by Dawn, who ushered me inside, set me up with a bunk, and said, "And of course you'll want to shower" in a tone that implied this was not just a polite assumption but rather more of a directive... .     In any event, I was happy to find that they really do have everything you could possibly need there, down to extra clothes you can wear while you're washing your trail laundry.  I picked out a t shirt with a snowboarding chipmunk on it, some shorts two sides too big, and washed my hair three times over while my laundry ran.  I then spent the afternoon going through my resupply box from May, who went above and beyond.  Other people's boxes had freeze dried spaghetti; mine had couscous, saag paneer, and brownies from a local Gainesville bakery.  Friends like May are hard to find!! She even sent coffee!!!!

Breakfast at Shaw's is not taken lightly.  I sat down at the table and immediately two big pancakes appeared in front of me.  After wolfing those down, Dawn came in and asked us what kind of eggs we wanted, and after I placed my order for two over easy, we continued sharing our trail experiences over coffee.  There were fourteen of us that morning, and it was awesome to be able to instantly relate to all of these strangers, having been through the same trials of the trail in the last week.  As Magellan ranted about Maine waterway terminology... "You call that a stream?!", plates began appearing in front of us with eggs, bacon and hash browns piled high.  It was amazing and we all ate until we couldn't move. 

Monson isn't large, and you can tell that it was once a far more bustling community than it is now, but it does have some new businesses that cater to hikers.  I went for lunch at Pete's Place and had a chicken salad sandwich that was delish.  They also had lots and lots of baked goodies that looked amazing, but I'd eaten enough already!

I'm definitely anxious to be back on the trail, but my Monson experience was great and I hope future town stops have the same sense of camaraderie and good times.  And food.  I hope they all have good food!

I've learned many important lessons so far, but the most important may be the concept of the hot lunch.  It's very easy to get wrapped up in the walking, only stopping momentarily at views that really deserve an hour's contemplation.  This both detracts from the scenery and exhausts the body.  Finding a spot to lay down the pack, pull out the stove, and make a real meal for lunch (even if it's ramen or a pack of oatmeal) gives you the opportunity to enjoy the scenery, rest your legs, and restore your energy.

Coming out of the hundred mile wilderness, I sat on the Barren Ledges, ate some delicious Annie's mac and cheese, and watched a group of three large birds soar higher and higher on thermals out of the valley while looking at this:

It's definitely important to keep walking, but it's far more important to stop and look around sometimes!

Attempt two to reach Baxter Peak involved Saddle trail, which according to the trail guide is the easiest ascent. Having seen both the hardest and easiest paths to the top we can reasonably ascertain that there is no easy way to Baxter Peak! Saddle Trail is a steep boulder climb, even though it is short, and several sections of it had so much water coming down that it was like climbing in a waterfall. We were essentially rock climbing, minus the safety gear, plus a thirty five pound pack strapped to our backs. However, after two days of hiking in Baxter Park we finally achieved our goal of summiting Katahdin.  The summit was completely encompassed by cloud cover, but we took a selfie next to "the sign" and were excited to start our AT journey officially!

If we thought the Saddle Trail up was difficult, we definitively didn't know what to expect on the way down.  Austin quoted Armageddon to describe the AT/Hunt Trail coming down from Baxter Peak as "pretty much the scariest environment imaginable." Words cannot describe the sheer terror and exquisite beauty of this trail.  There are large sections which feel like you are walking through a Tolkien novel, followed by strenuous scrambles across rock ridges with steep drops to both sides.  We made it, even with full packs, by taking it slowly and carefully considering each descent, but probably won't attempt that again!  Now we know why most people leave their gear at the KSC and only take daypacks to the top. 

We intended on hiking out of the park this evening, but came across Daicey Pond campground, which happened to have a cabin available.  We propose that  staying in a cabin with no electricity or running water still constitutes camping.  However the wood stove and free firewood allowed us to dry out all of our soggy gear from the last two rainy days.  Total win!

I've decided to name my left leg, "Smith."  The last two days have been spent catering to my busted left knee, and anything that high maintenance deserves a name.  Smith refuses to bear weight when in any position other than perfectly straight.  Why "Smith," you ask? It's a joke in the movie Mary Poppins.  The one chap says to the other, "I've just met a man with a wooden leg named Smith." The other chap replies, "What's the name of his other leg?" Makes me laugh even writing it now.

So, Smith had me defeated for a while.  I was moving slowly and in constant pain.  There were tears and  foul language and general frustration.  But I'm forty miles from Monson and only have five days of food, so sitting still isn't an option.  Finally with some experimentation, I was able to save myself with..... Funny Walks!

My knee bears weight perfectly fine when straight, it's just the bending that's the problem.  So my first funny walk is the "German Soldier" where I lift Ol' Smithy straight out in front of me, put some weight on my trekking poles and kind of pole vault myself up and over said straightened leg.  This works great for gentle up hills and down hills and can even be used in root and rock hopping scenarios!

If I've got good, flat, level ground, I can really get some speed up with the "Tetherball" wherein I step forward with my right leg, then swing my left around in a great big arc.  Beware, you can get carried away with this one, build up too much rotational velocity, and really throw yourself for a loop.  Use with caution.

On steep downhills, I do what I've termed "How's the Water."   I set myself good and stable on my trekking poles and gently lower Smith's big toe down to the next rock, similar to checking the temperature of a questionable swimming hole.  Works like a champ except my right quad is going to end up three times as big as my left.  I'll be like Hellboy but with one big leg instead of arm.

Last but not least is "Zombie With a Walker," an absolute necessity on steep climbs.  I plant my trekking poles ahead of me, take a big step with my right leg, then drag Smith up behind me like a dead body.  It's an ungainly, asymmetrical motion, but I get where I'm headed.

I should note that my internal monologue when reading profile maps is far more interesting now.  I used to think, "Well, I've got good level ground for a while, then steep climbs into and out of that valley." Now that assessment runs more like, "That's definitely German Soldier area there, maybe even with some good Tetherballing mixed in, but it's a whole lot of How's the Water and Zombie With a Walker after that." 

With my funny walks, I've picked up some speed, and my knee isn't nearly as sore at the end of the day.  Win!

Back to the woods!  It was tough saying goodbye to Austin .... Being out here by myself will be slightly more intimidating, but it had to happen sometime!

Riding back to the trail this time was way different than the first time.  I knew Alex had tried to give me advice originally, but I didn't have enough of a basis to really understand it.  I was able to absorb a lot more of it this time.  Tips about how to keep your feet from blistering (lubricate during the day, take your boots off at every break, make sure they're bone dry at night) and how to enjoy the trail (Alex recommends being butt naked in a lake at least twice a day).

My first day back in the woods was supposed to be a short one, but I got antsy and did twelve miles instead.  Bad mistake.  Now my left knee is on the blink so I have a ten mile day and s seven mile day lined up to recuperate. 

Major pluses..... Beautiful views off white cap mountain!  P.s. I'm at mile 78 for those who are counting!

So, the two days after Hell's Bog were not terribly memorable.  We needed to make it to a certain road in the hundred mile wilderness on the eighteenth in order to meet our shuttle back to Millinocket so that Austin could go back to work, and that meant consecutive fifteen mile days.  It was hot, humid, and the bugs were tough to deal with.  Things got progressively better though, even as our feet grew more blisters, and we were feeling pretty good by the night of the seventeenth, when we made camp at "The Antlers," a beautiful clearing in the pines next to a crystal clear lake.  We soothed our feet in the icy water, enjoyed the respite from the bugs, and generally enjoyed the evening, in contrast to the previous two. I'd say the most redeeming sights on these days were the beautiful views down into lakes and ponds nestled in the sides of the mountain. 

We woke to rain on the eighteenth,  and took a brief break in the storm to pack up and head out.  We made it to our agreed upon shuttle location a few hours early and were fortunately able to get cell reception to call the AT Lodge to pick us up. 

Back at the lodge, I took the most wonderful shower of my life, getting off a weeks worth of DEET and  dirt, and ate four meals worth of Chinese food in about two hours.  It was wonderful. 

I did go shopping after that,  restocking food and buying more Band-Aids, hair ties, tape for blisters, and most importantly, a BUG NET.  The ole man made a point when he said, "For three bucks you can get your sanity back." Boy was he right!

A cribbage game and some dinner at the AT Cafe and we felt good as new.  Oh, and flip flops.  Flip flops were crucial to restoring life to my feet.  I'm never leaving home without them again!

PS. The AT Cafe has squash donuts.  Most amazing thing I've eaten yet on this trip!

Having awoken to dry gear and a warm cabin, we restocked our water supply from the pond, packed up and headed out.  After a few miles of easy trail following Katahdin Stream, we came to two consecutive river crossings, which made us very happy that we had not attempted them the previous night.  With careful planning, and slow and steady progress, we made it across the water with only one tumble and no wet gear.  P.s., in Maine they call these "streams" but I have never seen a twenty foot wide stream with class II whitewater, so I will use terminology more familiar to the rest of the planet.

After fording the  rivers, we hiked along a stream for quite some time, finally exiting Baxter park.  We emerged onto a logging road, and were hiking along to Abol Bridge when the most wonderful sight appeared before us..    A restaurant!  The Northern Restaurant was a huge blessing, providing us with the tastiest barbecue imaginable and a mushroom swiss burger that couldn't be beat.  We had planned on picking up a little more food before entering the 100 Mile Wilderness, but this allowed us to eat a huge lunch, saving our supplies, and even giving us enough leftovers for a full dinner.

Leaving the restaurant, we entered the wilderness, knowing we wouldn't have any supplies available for the next four days.  Trying to make up for our lost day, we hiked past several beautiful campsites, including "Rainbow Ledges" which has a beautiful view of Katahdin, and a nice lean-to.  Looking for a viable place to tent for the evening, as the sun was finally dropping, we took an ill advised detour into what we now term "HELL'S BOG." Big Beaver Pond has no viable campsite, mosquitoes so thick the swarm impedes visibility, and crumbling log "balance beams" over knee deep swamp.  Take this place out of the guidebook. 

We hiked back to the main trail, found a suitable campsite ten yards down the trail, ate our leftovers and called it a night.  Maybe tomorrow will redeem us.

View of Katahdin from Rainbow Ledges!

So, today did not go quite as planned.  We headed up the Helon Taylor Trail in a light rain, climbing up what was almost a creek bed with all the rain from the day before.  The trail was challenging, requiring a fair amount of climbing on slick rocks, and was a steep ascent.  We were doing well with the climb until the temperature started to drop.  Losing feeling in our hands, we continued on, but the wind kept getting stronger and the temperature dropping.  Finally about a mile after emerging above treeline, faced with difficult scrambles, sixty mile an hour winds, and being pelted by ice pellets, we decided risking life and limb wasn't worth it and turned around. 

However, the day ended with a beautiful surprise, as we returned to Roaring Brook campground, took another trail to Chimney Pond, and were able to get a lean-to thanks to some other cancelations.  The Chimney Pond campground has to be one of the most beautiful in the park, surrounded by mountains on three sides with a crystal clear lake in the hollow.  A total surprise and one that would not have been discovered had our day gone as planned!

Tomorrow we will attempt Baxter Peak again, this time from an easier trail!

Knife's Edge, we were so close!

Almost there!  Austin is going to spend the first week hiking with me, which I'm super thankful for because it means being able to figure out some of this trail stuff with a partner before going it alone! 

Having spent the night in Boston, this morning started with a drive to Maine and breakfast at Friendly Toast in Portsmouth NH (yum!).  Arriving in Millinocket, we headed to the AT Lodge, where Tie and Alex set us up with a shuttle to Roaring Brook Campground (north of Mt Katahdin) and the promise of a shower and warm bed in six days.  Alex's inspirational pep talk on the drive to the park included such nuggets as, "It's just walking, yo" and "We are all custodians of the trail by virtue of our participation on it."  Oh, and my favorite, "Be of the trail, not just on the trail."

After setting up the tent, we made some Annie's Mac and Cheese with pepperoni for late lunch/early supper, restocked our water supply, and are currently snacking on avocado on the porch of the ranger station, light rain falling all around. 

Tomorrow morning we head up to Baxter Peak for the official start of the AT!  Yahoo!

It's just walkin, yo....

First blog post!!!  Getting close to the start of the trail!!!!!

Some of the most frequently asked questions from people hearing I'm headed out to the woods for five months have been about what I'm taking with me.  Are you carrying a gun? (No.) How many changes of clothes are you taking? (Two, ish.) Are you taking a tent? (No, ish.)

Here it is!

Total pack weight excluding water and food is 23 pounds.  This includes the following:

1. Pack (Lowe Alpine Merak ND45)
2. Rainfly, Poles, and Ground Tarp (From my MHW Lightwedge 2)
3. Trekking Poles (REI Aluminum)
4. 32 oz Water Bottle (Nalgene)
5. Headlamp (Black Diamond Storm)
6. Sleeping Bag (Sierra Designs Thunderbolt)
7. Sleeping Pad (Thermarest Ridgesrest)
8. Trail Sandals (Teva)
9. Baseball Cap (Walmart)
10. Sunglasses (Ray Ban)
11. Hammock (ENO)
12. Hammock Suspension (Byer Microrope)
13. Stove and Pot (Primus ETA Solo)
14. Stove Fuel (Primus)
15. Spork (Light My Fire)
16. Food Bag (Separate Post Later on What's in It)
17. Water Bladder (Camelbak 70 oz)
18. Water Purification (Katadyn and MSR Aquatabs)
19. Solar Charger (Goal Zero Nomad 7)
20. Battery Pack (Nomad 10)
21. Spare Paracord
22. First Aid Kit (Adventure Medical 0.7, with modifications)
23. Fleece Hat (MHW)
24. Toothbrush & Toothpaste
25. Dental Floss
26. Bar Soap/Shampoo (J.R. Leggett's)
27. Anti-Chafe (Body Glide)
28. Ballpoint Pen (Fisher Spacepen)
29. Multi-tools (Leatherman Micra and Wave)
30. Bear Bell (REI)
31. Bug Repellent (Jungle Juice 100)
32. Lighter (BIC)
33. Nail Clippers
34. Turkish Evil Eye Keychain
35. Firestarter Sticks (Coleman/Walmart)
36. The A.T. Guide (2014 Southbound Edition)
37. Glove Liners (Patagonia)
38. Gloves (Novara)
39. Bandanas (2)
40. IPOD Shuffle
41. Rain Jacket (Sierra Designs)
42. Down Jacket (Columbia Omniheat)
43. Rain Pants (White Sierra)
44. Shorts (North Face)
45. Zip Off Pants (North Face)
46. Thermal Pants and Shirt (Patagonia)
47. Tank Top
48. Short Sleeve Shirt
49. Long Sleeve Shirt
50. 2 Sports Bras
51. 2 Pairs Underwear
52. One Pair Sock Liners
53. Three Pair Socks (2 Short Boot, 1 Long)
54. Boots (Vasque)
55. Luck (Copious Quantities, Not Pictured)

Added (thanks to blog comments!):

1. Phone and Charger
2. Toilet Paper
   
3. Sunscreen
4. Pack Cover
5. Bug Netting
6. Compass

A lot of my gear is old (as in a couple of pieces a decade plus) and some of it is brand-spankin' new.  I figure what dies on the trail will be replaced, and if it's worked solidly for several years it will probably keep on truckin' for at least a few miles.  Some of my gear is also from other sports - my bike gloves happen to be lightweight, waterproof and comfortable, and I see no reason to not use them for this.

Basically, I put together the best kit I had from existing gear and then augmented with new supplies; I felt this was the thriftiest thing to do.  Therefore, I welcome suggestions for how to improve on this or lighten weight, but am not about to run out and replace something in my pack based solely on weight or "new modelness."  And for the love of Pete, if you see something I've forgotten, please please please tell me before I'm in the middle of the woods without something crucial! I've left one thing out on purpose to see who recognizes it!